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Your Bubbie Would Follow Me...

Picking Up Hooker's In The Tenderloin

4/26/2013

8 Comments

 
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The Original, The Party Girl, and Brothers Not Lovers
"Sweet" is hardly the first word that comes to mind when talking about the Tenderloin.  But for the past three years, David Williams has been changing all of that, one sweet treat at a time. 

Healthcare professional turned graphic designer by trade (because that's a normal progression), David fell victim to the economic downturn in 2008.  Looking for that next step, he, "simply had a craving for caramels," and four months home experimentation led him to develop some killer recipes he felt proud to share.  When his two close friends started The Perish Trust, David's first opportunity to showcase his new creations presented itself at the opening party.  

People clamored for the candies, asking where they could buy more, and David thought more seriously about opening a spot of his own.  Having lived in the Tenderloin for a spell, he watched a "For Rent" sign hang for more than five months before he contacted the landlord, who loved his concept, and pulled the trigger.
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David "Hooker" Williams Turning This...
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Into These!
At any given time, David has about four different caramels, each of which has a fun little tounge-and-cheek story behind it.  The "Party Girl" is named for both an old painting of a woman he found and restored as well as for a friend in Reno who sends along party mix every Christmas.  Studded with toasted pecans, coconut, corn and oat cereal and pretzel bits, this caramel sits atop a smoked sea-salted dark chocolate base for the best-of-both-worlds sweet and salty combo.  The Brothers Not Lovers caramel is an ode to his close friends and Sightglass Coffee's Justin and Jerad Morrison, who were often confused as a couple instead of siblings, and contains the company's Owl's Howl infused inside.  As for the 3rd Nut Caramel, David just had trouble deciding on the third nut to use. 

Bread pudding is always on the menu, and was a no-brainer as an homage to his New Orleans roots.  Still using his mothers secret recipe, he tweaks the flavors based on the season.  When nothing is really shining, he falls back on his staples like banana salted caramel or bourbon chocolate chip, served warm from the oven, and smothered with a rich sauce and loaded with nuts.
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A Smörgåsbord of Sweets, Including Strawberry Chocolate Chip Bread Pudding
As for the name? It has absolutely nothing to do with the Tenderloin tenants - that part was just a (somewhat happy?) accident.  David's nickname is Hooker, which evolved, oddly enough, because he used to call his friends hookers when shooting pool.  Thus, he became "Hooker Dave," until people just dropped his real name.  
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Hooker Himself
I won't try and sugarcoat it - the TL is still somewhat sketchy with its share of crazies.  In fact, while chatting with Hook, there was a man doing his version of parkour (a.k.a. - jumping and spinning from the street to the curb...continuously).  But Hooker makes a great point by virtue of his success - when things seem at their worst, remember that we each have the power to actively make a difference in our own lives and in the lives of those around us by following our passions.  They radiate onto others, and can turn even the most uncertain futures (or neighborhoods) into something special. 

Trust me, brave the 'hood during daylight hours, snag a sweet treat, and get "hooked" on these mind-blowing caramels.  

After all, there are certainly worse addictions to have in the Tenderloin.
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Nosh on,
Josh
8 Comments

Marathon Monday - Boston and The French Laundry

4/17/2013

4 Comments

 
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Ten months.  It had been ten months since we had shown our families around San Francisco, taken them to Local Mission Eatery, and cycled across the Golden Gate Bridge.  It had been ten months since we had tried to redeem the certificate we were gifted as a an incredibly generous gesture of gratitude. Finally on Monday, after ten months, we landed our reservation at The French Laundry.

Monday was also the day that tragedy struck the Boston Marathon.

I awoke that morning giddy with anticipation of what was to be one of the greatest dining experiences of my life.  In an instant, that feeling was ripped away and replaced with gut-wrenching horror.  See, from the prospective of a marathon runner, there is no better feeling than seeing your family at the finish line, cheering your name with smiles 26.2 miles wide.  To think that someone was determined to take that away from me and every other racer made me physically sick to my stomach.  Paralyzed with fear for my sister, my friends, and people I didn't even know but for whom my heart broke regardless, I spent the rest of the day in bed, teetering between sadness and anger, refreshing my Twitter feed and listening to news for so much as an inkling of good news. 

Mere hours after the incident, we arrived at The French Laundry to a symbol of respect and honor:
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Flag at The French Laundry Garden at Half Mast
Because emotion plays such a vital role in the meals we consume, I was nervous that this gift that was given to me - meant to be enjoyed and savored - may have been tarnished in some way: that I would not have been able to fully appreciate the experience to the fullest.  Yet as I walked through the cottage-like doors to the very pristine dining room I had only dreamed of, a sense of calm overtook me under the wings of our server Angela and our sommelier Patrick (visiting from New York's PerSe).  For the next three hours, I was able to forget - or at least, push away - all of the bad in the world and simply enjoy an incredible meal with stellar people.
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Bouchon Bakery Brioche...
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...and Butter Buddies! Salted from Washington (Honeycomb) and Unsalted from California.
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"Oysters and Pearls" // Creamy, Custardy Pearl Tapioca with Island Creek Oysters and White Sturgeon Caviar. There is a reason this is a staple.
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"Salade De Choux-Fleur" // Intensely Fresh and Floral Cauliflower, Sweet Poached Field Rhubarb, Split English Peas and Mint-Infused Extra Virgin Olive Oil
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"Grilled Guinea Hen Ravioli" // Sprouting Spigarello Kale, Farm Broccoli, Cherry Belle Radishes and Black Winter Truffles (plus an extra dusting of truffles mid-plate!)
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Clos Rougeard, Saumur Champigny Blanc, Breze 2008 - Best White Of My Life
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Lopez de Heredia, Rioja Vina Tondonia Gran Reserva 1994 - Best Red of My Life
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"Atlantic Halibut 'Confit A La Minute' // Melt-In-Your-Mouth Halibut with Sacramento Delta Green Asparagus, Butter-Poached Morel Mushrooms, Pickled Ramps and 'Sauce Noilly Prat'
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"Sweet Butter-Poached Maine Lobster Fricassée" // Caramelized Green Garlic, Young Artichokes, Carrot Buttons and Barigoule Broth.
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"'Ballotine' of Four Story Hill Farm Poularde" // Moist, Tender Chicken with French Laundry Garden Beets, Celery Branch English Walnuts and Royal Blenheim Apricot Purée
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"Marcho Farms Nature-Fed Veal 'Calotte'" // Wrapped in Applewood Smoked Bacon, Romain Lettuce, Pickled Cucumbers, 'Bread and Butter' Turnips, Green Tomato Relish and Dill Jus
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"Herb-Roasted Elysian Fields Farm Lamb Saddle" // 'Panisse,' Marinated Jingle Bell Peppers, Eggplant Confit, Garbanzo Beans and Burnt Lemon Jus (Photo Credit: Jeff Solomon)
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"Salers Reserve" // Pickled Green Strawberries, Young Fennel Bulb, Piedmont Hazelnuts and Aged Balsamic Vinaigrette
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"Verjus Blanc" // Demi-Sec Grapes, Jasmine Tea Ice Cream and Caramel Crisp
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"Dark Treacle" // Devil's Food, Valrhona Chocolate 'Marquise,' Lyle's Golden Syrup and Marshall Farms Burnt Honey Ice Cream
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"Princess Cake" // Animal Farm Buttermilk, Navel Orange Marmalade, Toasted Marzipan and Cara Cara Orange Sorbet
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"Cappuccino" // Coffee Ice Cream, Milk Foam, Sugared Donuts and (not pictured) Candied Macadamia Nuts
And that is what dining among friends can be: a way to exist in the moment and be cognizant of the food we have, the company we keep, and the ability to enjoy experiences such as these.  I am so fortunate for the opportunities in my life, and Monday made me realize that fact perhaps more-so than ever before.  The dichotomy of the horrific morning counterbalanced by gorgeous evening - both unforgettable in their own respects - made me take a step back and truly appreciate the beauty of food, family and friends. 

We must move on, but never forget. We must live our lives normally, but as we do, occasionally take the time to recognize and be thankful for all that surrounds us.

Whether you dine at The French Laundry, your local coffee shop, an In-N-Out or in your mother's kitchen, be sure to thank someone involved for all that they do, because at any instant, it can all be taken away.
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Take-Home Truffles: The Inner Workings of the PB&J
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Tin of Shortbread Cookies for Breakfast
Nosh on,
Josh
4 Comments

Four Easy Steps - How To Picnic in NoPa

4/15/2013

3 Comments

 
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The Giuseppe, Modified on Josey Baker Bread...Bread
It's no secret that NoPa is exploding on the food front - both a blessing and a curse.

With great popularity inevitably comes longer waits and increased hassle: a rigidity that gives our once fluid, leisurely morning brunch unnecessary weekend structure.  The neighborhood's namesake restaurant sees lines around the corner come Sunday morning and patrons of The Mill mill about awaiting their tasty toasts.  

Luckily, all hope for a relaxing weekend meal is not lost just yet.

Having been graced with tremendously glorious weather and the company of out-of-town guests from chilly Chicago, I decided to put my professional picnicking skills to good use, take advantage of my up-and-coming surroundings, and show off my new and improved, four-step process for a successful Sunday sit-down in the park.  

Step 1 - Peruse the farmers' market at Grove and Divisadero for fresh, easily sharable fruits like strawberries and oranges.
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Oranges and Tangelos
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Strawberry Baskets Forever
Step 2 - Stroll back down Divis and enter the spacious, welcoming new Bi-Rite location for sandwiches, salads, and your bottled beverage of choice. 
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Sandwich Counter, Bi-Rite Market
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Wine Rack, Bi-Rite Market
Step 3 - Head one block east to Alamo Square Park, plop down your finest picnic blanket (or that spare bed sheet you just so happened to have lying around from college), and unload your bounty.
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The Feast is Ours!
Step 4 - Wrangle up a few close friends and remember why you wanted to picnic in the first place: to enjoy your company, both old and new.  To soak up the sun and breath in the picturesque city that surrounds you.  To be able to bring your dog along for the day and watch him frolic through the grass and make acquaintances when he isn't begging for food.  To have the freedom to kick off your shoes and run around - just because you can.  To look at the Painted Ladies and blast the theme song from Full House (not that anyone really does that).

We totally did that.

To break away from the formality, and from the lines in which we find ourselves standing both for food, and sometimes, in life. 
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Nosh on,
Josh
3 Comments

The Ultimate Nopalito (To Go)

4/4/2013

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Packaged Nopalito To Go
Contrary to popular belief, I do in fact have hobbies other than food.  I grew up playing every sport I could, majored in sport management, and competed in collegiate ultimate frisbee for three years at Michigan - not the hippie kind, but the, "We-were-all-athletes-in-high-school-and-want-to-stay-active-and-competitive-but-aren't-good-enough-to-play-at-the-NCAA-level" kind.  Joining that team was one of the best decisions I have ever made: it resulted in my traveling, staying fit, and meeting my three best friends.   

When I moved out here straight after college, I sought out a league in which to play with the hopes of meeting a similar group of people and starting my new life with fun new friends.  After the first game at the chilly, windy fields of Golden Gate Park, fellow teammates and competitors alike asked the same question:

"Going to the bar?"

One of my favorite parts of this league is the post-game bonding. Everyone, regardless of team, heads over to the Little Shamrock on 9th and Irving for a few pints.  As an added bonus, they allow you to bring food into the bar and since I hadn't yet eaten at the Sunset's Nopalito, the timing seemed ideal for a visit. 

Lindsay behind the bar walked me through my to-go order and steered me toward the Picadita con Suadero y Chorizo as an appetizer, while local patron and Sunset native John could not speak highly enough about the Birria Tradicional.

Sold.
 
Packaged perfectly and ready to devour, each aspect of my dinner was compartmentalized to preserve each food's flavor, temperature and texture. I dug first into the Picadita where black beans, braised beef brisket and chorizo sat atop a thick, round, pastry-like tortilla.  Spicy and filling, I could have eaten this alone and been just fine.  

But...I also ordered the Birria.

The short ribs fell off of the bone as I plucked them from the rich, complex, not-too-spicy sauce in which they swam and mixed them with the accompanying rice, salsa and a spritz of lime to stuff in my warm corn tortilla. But after the beers and the Picadito, I could only manage one.

Thought the leftovers made for a fantastic breakfast taco.
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Leftover Birria, Bacon, Fried Egg and Avocado Breakfast Taco
To Lindsay and John, thank you for your killer recommendations!

Nosh on,
Josh
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Passing Over Passover Night Eight at Ad Hoc

4/2/2013

3 Comments

 
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Seder Brisket
When I was a kid, my family always kept kosher for Passover: brei for breakfast, sandwiches on matzoh for lunch, and burgers sans buns for dinner.

We simply ignored the fact that our morning matzoh brei had bacon, ham and swiss were tucked between our oversized crackers at lunch, and the patties were in fact double cheeseburgers. It's no wonder that today I continue that tradition in full force:
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Bacon, Egg and Cheeseburger on Matzoh
...and by day four, it becomes necessary to find other ways to palate the cardboard tasting squares:
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We followed the "holiday" never ate leavened goods, but the traditional kosher aspect stopped when my grandfather, a kosher butcher, passed away.  For me, the many ancient rules of kashrut were created at a time when such measures were necessary, but today no longer seem relevant: the same logic applies for the eighth night of Passover. 

In Israel, Passover lasts for seven nights.  However, when Jews spread to the diaspora it was often unclear as to when the sun set in the holy land, so the rabbis determined that those outside of the holy land tack on an extra night: essentially, "Just in case."

Thanks to the wonders of technology, the weather channel, and text messages I know precisely what time the sun sets in Israel, thus I keep Passover for seven nights, and when my good friend Nefaur invited me to celebrate his birthday on said evening at Ad Hoc for fried chicken dinner night, I was pleased to oblige. 
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Baby Iceburg Wedge: Red Radish, Bread and Butter Pickles, Golden Beets, Shaved Rainbow Carrots, Caraway Dressing, Spiced Chickpeas
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Buttermilk Fried Chicken: (not pictured: Green Bean Casserole, Mushroom Veloute Crispy Shallots, Whipped Yukon Gold Potatoes), Buttermilk Biscuits, Blueberry Jam in the background
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Shrimp and Grits Supplement Piquillo Peppers, Diced Ham, Parsley Vinaigrette
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Seascape: Wild Arugula, Palladin Toast Granny Smith Apples, Crushed Hazelnuts
Ready to dominate every wheat and grain product in sight, I was at first disappointed with the salad, but once I took a bite of the extremely well-seasoned lettuce surrounded by southern additions like chickpeas and pickles, all was forgiven.  The fried chicken certainly lived up to its reputation - not only for the incredibly crisp, crunchy coating, but more-so for the impossibly moist chicken itself that melted away with the chicken skin in my mouth.  Probably the least kosher aspect of the meal found creamy, cheesy grits as the bed for tender, juicy shrimp.  I wanted more tartness and acidity on the seascape: a cow/goat cheese served alongside butter toast with hazelnuts, apples and arugula.

But hell, it had bread. 

For the caliber of food served at Ad Hoc, it skyrockets on my list.  Solid execution of the staples, inventive twists, gigantic, family-style portions and a homey vibe made this the perfect night to celebrate a birthday the end of Passover.

Nosh on,
Josh

P.S. - The vanilla panna cotta topped with strawberries and accompanied by cinnamon shortbread cookies was the damn best I've ever had: a deep, rich vanilla custard that had an almost cheesecake-esq flavor, sweet macerated strawberries and butter shortbread left my sweet tooth beyond satisfied, though with no decent picture to share. 
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    Writer, educator, and positive peer-pressurer. 

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