The day had finally arrived, and as I walked around the gardens of Sunnyside Organic Farms, I couldn't help but be reminded of how lucky I was to be here. Surrounded by beautiful scenery, produce, and people, there was an electricity in the air as my Twitterverse began to materialize before my very eyes into something tangible: something real.
Organic Tomatoes At Sunnyside Organic Farm
As the events inside of the greenhouse began to take shape, we were serenaded by the angelic sounds of Kim Kenny and the Otherlys. The lead singer (I'll give you one guess as to her name...), actually made me do a double take as she began to wail: her soulful vocals filling room, all the while Boccalone and 4505 Meats were generously providing some tasty salty pig parts on which the guests could nosh.
 Corey Nead Slicing Charcuterie |  Kim Kenny and the Otherlys |  Samples! |
At last, the real festivities began: ten chefs, ten dishes, and a lot of hungry people. Each chef had his or her own station from which they prepped, plated and served the guests who arrived in front of them. Judges however, had a separate table. I felt like royalty! And, to ensure that we received each dish and that nothing ran out, we were served rather than going to each station. What a luxurious life I lead...
Yet as I sat there, tasting these incredible dishes and loving life, I couldn't shake this unexpected, overriding thought from my head:
I feel like a dick.
Seriously, who am I to cast judgment upon the food of chefs who have been pouring their hearts, souls and talents into their food for just about as long as I've been alive (sorry...)? Learning the ropes of the restaurant business from the ground up, from dish-washing to culinary school to head chef honors, these people come from backgrounds and experiences the likes of which I can only venture a mediocre guess - all to be evaluated by a kid with a food blog. Sure, my palate has expanded tremendously over the past year, but it doesn't hold a candle to the knowledge and skills that these chefs possess.
In talking afterward with one of the chefs, he explained that it is all part of the handshake they make. The deal they strike. The bargain. It's part of the business, and each of these chefs entered into the Throw Down willingly with the understanding that this was the scenario. Additionally, he pointed out that our choices could have easily changed with something as simple as the weather - five degrees colder, rain, or a heat wave would have made me enjoy a completely different dish. "Food is as subjective as art," he added.
That only made me feel slightly better.
So chefs, take away from this what you will. But on this particular day, at this particular venue, at this particular time, with my particular tastes, the following is what I know to be true from my culinary point of view:
Yet as I sat there, tasting these incredible dishes and loving life, I couldn't shake this unexpected, overriding thought from my head:
I feel like a dick.
Seriously, who am I to cast judgment upon the food of chefs who have been pouring their hearts, souls and talents into their food for just about as long as I've been alive (sorry...)? Learning the ropes of the restaurant business from the ground up, from dish-washing to culinary school to head chef honors, these people come from backgrounds and experiences the likes of which I can only venture a mediocre guess - all to be evaluated by a kid with a food blog. Sure, my palate has expanded tremendously over the past year, but it doesn't hold a candle to the knowledge and skills that these chefs possess.
In talking afterward with one of the chefs, he explained that it is all part of the handshake they make. The deal they strike. The bargain. It's part of the business, and each of these chefs entered into the Throw Down willingly with the understanding that this was the scenario. Additionally, he pointed out that our choices could have easily changed with something as simple as the weather - five degrees colder, rain, or a heat wave would have made me enjoy a completely different dish. "Food is as subjective as art," he added.
That only made me feel slightly better.
So chefs, take away from this what you will. But on this particular day, at this particular venue, at this particular time, with my particular tastes, the following is what I know to be true from my culinary point of view:
Chicken Salad, Beet Paint, Pea Shoots, Kumquat and Wasabi Powder
Chef Alli Sosan undoubtedly put together the most attractive dish of the night: chicken salad with beet paint, pea shoots, kumquat and wasabi powder. I can honestly say I've never had chicken cooked quite that perfectly - tender, juicy morsels seasoned beautifully, and the pea shoots added a perfect crunchy counterbalance. Overall, a light and fresh plate, perfect for a summer picnic. The kumquat seemed almost like an afterthought, which was a shame because the salad as a whole lacked acid that could have been achieved with the addition of more citrus. The one bite I took with every element was glorious, but it wasn't sustained throughout the dish.
Rabbit, Crispy Cheesy Fingerlings, Brussels Sprouts, Pearl Onions and Dates
Rabbit was the protein of choice for Chef Marcel DeGrosse. The fingerling potatoes were out of this world - crispy cheese on the exterior with a fluffy center made these tubers irresistible. The flavors were spot on, as the rabbit paired nicely with the sweet dates and pearl onions. I loved the texture of the Brussels sprouts: soft outsides with tender centers, but they were a bit bland. My biggest gripe with the dish, however, was as a result of the rabbit itself: I wanted so much for the meat to fall off the bone, but it was simply overcooked and a bit tough.
 Twenty Five Pound Porcetta, 4505 Meats |  Porcetta, Crispy Skin, Mango Chutney, Arugula Salad, Head Cheese |
As some of you may know, I'm a man who enjoys my pig parts, so when 4505 Meats brought this puppy to the table, I knew I was in for a treat. A 20 pound porchetta was carved into thick slices and served alongside a spicy stone fruit chutney with an arugula salad and a small block of head cheese - all topped off with a square of crispy pork skin. The porchetta was flavorful thanks to the fantastic seasoning along the edges, but a little bit dry. I wish they had served the chutney in layers between the slices of porchetta so that it formed its own sandwich of sorts, because while the components alone were good, the combination was killer. The sweetness from the peaches and nectarines balanced the spice of the jalapeño therein as well as salt of the pork, while the juice from the fruit created a pseudo-sauce when slathered across the top. The greens added a peppery bite, but the head cheese seemed to be out of place and didn't add too much as far as I'm concerned. Though it was not unwelcome.
Wagyu Beef, Butter Lettuce, Green Avocado Sauce, Blue Cheese, Radish, Tomato, Pepitas
Snake River Farms provided the Caliente Sisters with the Wagyu beef that anchored their harvest greens salad with avocado sauce, bleu cheese, radishes and toasted pepitas. The Wagyu was marinated with Serrano pepper which gave a decent kick, though not one so intense that even a spice-wuss such as myself could appreciate it, especially with the creamy, tangy avocado dressing to offset it. The steak was cooked to perfection, and the fresh harvest greens were a great bed on which to rest the heavy protein. This was a solid dish, to be sure, and is something I would happily order at any restaurant multiple times, but there was nothing that stood out and wow-ed me. A delicious, perfectly executed, staple of a salad.
Crawfish Crème Brûlée
Savory crème brûlée - a bold choice from Chef Grant. Skeptical, I figured I might as well crack the surface and dive in spoon first. The torched cheese on top mimicked the traditionally "brûléed" sugar, but with a stringy finish rather than a solid break. The "crème" had the lightest, fluffiest, pillowy mouth-feel I could have ever imagined, almost akin to whipped cream with a pudding-like smoothness. Yet in each bite, that otherwise soft interior was broken up by gigantic chunks of crawfish. The flavors were distinctly Cajun, but not overpoweringly so, even a bit subdued by the extraordinary creaminess.
 Veal, Panzanella Salad |  Smoked Fig Cake, Figs, Morel and Chanterelle Mushroom Liquid Nitrogen Ice Cream |
We were treated to an extra dish thanks to Chef Pampuch. For his main course, we were treated to a medium-rare slice of veal with a panzanella salad, radishes and tomatoes. The meat was ideally pink, and disintegrated as I took each bite. The bread in the panzanella salad was soft and wet yet sill maintained some of its interior texture, which I quite enjoyed. Overall, the judges concurred that the entire dish was just too over-seasoned, and masked the delicate flavor of the veal itself.
As for dessert, we were all blown away. The smoked fig cake contained nuggets of walnuts and served as the base for an incredibly unique morel and chanterelle mushroom ice cream made with liquid nitrogen. I think we got this a bit too late, as it turned into more of a foam by the time touched it. Regardless, the flavor was spectacular: a salty, earthy flavor brought out the sweetness in the figs, which married perfectly with the olive oil and sea salt drizzled over top in true Italian fashion.
As for dessert, we were all blown away. The smoked fig cake contained nuggets of walnuts and served as the base for an incredibly unique morel and chanterelle mushroom ice cream made with liquid nitrogen. I think we got this a bit too late, as it turned into more of a foam by the time touched it. Regardless, the flavor was spectacular: a salty, earthy flavor brought out the sweetness in the figs, which married perfectly with the olive oil and sea salt drizzled over top in true Italian fashion.
Braised Snake River Farms Wagyu Beef Agnolotti
Chef Alex Tamburro from right here in the Bay Area gave us agnolotti (which, as he explained, is essentially ravioli made from one sheet of pasta, hence only three crimped edges) with braised Snake River Farms Wagyu beef in a tomato sauce with thinly shaved cheese and basil. This dish made me truly understand what it means to layer flavors. The sauce first gave off a fresh tomato essence, followed immediately by a savory unctuousness created from what I can only assume was a veal or beef stock, and finally tailing off with a buttery finish. While pasta was a little too al dente, the filling was superbly tender and juicy. As you cut into the agnolotti, the interior spilled out into the sauce to create a beef and noodle soup of sorts, which was a fun little activity.
Cajun Sea bass, Cornmeal Dusted Oyster, Root Beer Braised Greens, Cheese Grits Watermelon Gastique
Well butter my behind and call me a biscuit. This was the definition of southern cooking. A cornmeal dusted oyster, Cajun sea bass, root beer braised greens, cheese grits and a watermelon gastrique courtesy of Chef Jeremy Enfinger. This was by far and away the dish to which I was most looking forward, and it delivered on almost every level. The oyster practically melted in my mouth after my teeth cracked the crispy cornmeal crust, and the braised greens had a sweetness from the root beer that balanced out the Cajun spices. Unfortunately, the sea bass was overcooked, and I didn't get a whole lot of cheese in the grits.
Chèvre Cheesecake, Cayenne Gingersnap Crust, Bacon Jam, 4505 Chicharrones
I think Chef Trace may have been trying to bribe me here. Knowing my undying love for her bacon jam, its addition was certainly not going to hurt. The dessert was lovely - the chèvre was sweetened yet had a distinctly savory aspect, all the while holding a smooth cheesecake consistency. The sweet/salty bacon jam mirrored the sweet/savory cheesecake, and the chicharrones added crunch for texture. The crust could have been a bit thicker and with more of the spicy cayenne, which was muted among the creamy cheese.
When all was said and done, we were left stunned by both the quality and the quantity of food before us. After a deep breath, I took a quick look around our table, only to observe this:
When all was said and done, we were left stunned by both the quality and the quantity of food before us. After a deep breath, I took a quick look around our table, only to observe this:
The Aftermath
While it is completely against my nature to "give everyone a trophy," I do want to hand out some special honorable mentions:
Best Plating: Chef Alli Sosna
Best Single Bite: Chef Jeremy Enfinger's Oyster
Most Innovative: Chef Scott Pampouch's Morel and Chanterelle Mushroom Liquid Nitrogen Ice Cream
Best Pig Part: Crispy Skin from 4505's porchetta
Ultimately, the judges had to choose a single dish. So, after much deliberation, arguing, push-back, and a much needed walk around the venue to ease ourselves out of our respective food comas, we chose...
Two.
Call us chicken. Say we ducked out. Cry foul!
We just couldn't do it.
See, there were no rules in place, so we had to establish our criteria on the fly. Was the winner supposed to have the best complete dish? The best bite? Sweet or savory? Lunch, dinner, snack, appetizer? The possibilities were endless. In the end, we agreed on our two dishes: the first was our favorite in that we would seek it out specifically to have it again. It was so unique and irresistible, and we all found ourselves coming back time and time again for another bite.
Congratulations to winner number one: Chef Chris Grant and his Crawfish Crème Brûlée!
However, we could not justify that as a complete meal. It was so rich that the ramekin sized cup was the perfect amount. So, our favorite "entree" went to:
Chef Alex Tamburro's Wagyu Beef Agnolotti!
Some people think that a tie is 50/50: an even split. But that just isn't the case. A tie is two wholes. It is two dishes that are each, in their entirety, the best of the best.
Without sounding cheesy, the real winners were those who experienced the food. These chefs told their stories through food: their cultures, their backgrounds, and their passions all came through in the dishes they prepared. And we all had the honor to take part in that journey.
This event was about so much more than competition. It was about teamwork...
Best Plating: Chef Alli Sosna
Best Single Bite: Chef Jeremy Enfinger's Oyster
Most Innovative: Chef Scott Pampouch's Morel and Chanterelle Mushroom Liquid Nitrogen Ice Cream
Best Pig Part: Crispy Skin from 4505's porchetta
Ultimately, the judges had to choose a single dish. So, after much deliberation, arguing, push-back, and a much needed walk around the venue to ease ourselves out of our respective food comas, we chose...
Two.
Call us chicken. Say we ducked out. Cry foul!
We just couldn't do it.
See, there were no rules in place, so we had to establish our criteria on the fly. Was the winner supposed to have the best complete dish? The best bite? Sweet or savory? Lunch, dinner, snack, appetizer? The possibilities were endless. In the end, we agreed on our two dishes: the first was our favorite in that we would seek it out specifically to have it again. It was so unique and irresistible, and we all found ourselves coming back time and time again for another bite.
Congratulations to winner number one: Chef Chris Grant and his Crawfish Crème Brûlée!
However, we could not justify that as a complete meal. It was so rich that the ramekin sized cup was the perfect amount. So, our favorite "entree" went to:
Chef Alex Tamburro's Wagyu Beef Agnolotti!
Some people think that a tie is 50/50: an even split. But that just isn't the case. A tie is two wholes. It is two dishes that are each, in their entirety, the best of the best.
Without sounding cheesy, the real winners were those who experienced the food. These chefs told their stories through food: their cultures, their backgrounds, and their passions all came through in the dishes they prepared. And we all had the honor to take part in that journey.
This event was about so much more than competition. It was about teamwork...
Chef Sosna Pouring Liquid Nitrogen for Chef Pampuch
...friendship...
 Champions: Chef Tamburro and Chef Grant |  Chefs Pampuch, Grant, Enfinger and Sosna |
...and working toward the goal of making the world of food a better place - not only for ourselves, but for future generations. As a society, we have lost our sense of culture when it comes to the foods we consume. We take for granted the fresh fruits and vegetables that we can grow sustainably and organically in our own backyards in the name of processed convenience and mass quantity.
When I look around at the chefs who comprised the inaugural Throw Down on the Farm, I see more than just cooks. I see more than just aprons and knives in the kitchen behind the scenes. I see more than just phenomenally crafted dishes.
You know what I see?
I see a group of men and women who are willing to stand up and fight for what they believe. A group that is willing to showcase ingredients as they were meant to be. A group that is unwilling to take shortcuts for the sake of making a buck. A group that loves what they do so much so that they are willing to invest their every being into it, and wishes to share their gifts with the world for the benefit of the greater good.
In a food competition such as this, someone will take home the crown. But when talented people join forces for the betterment of society, everyone wins.
When I look around at the chefs who comprised the inaugural Throw Down on the Farm, I see more than just cooks. I see more than just aprons and knives in the kitchen behind the scenes. I see more than just phenomenally crafted dishes.
You know what I see?
I see a group of men and women who are willing to stand up and fight for what they believe. A group that is willing to showcase ingredients as they were meant to be. A group that is unwilling to take shortcuts for the sake of making a buck. A group that loves what they do so much so that they are willing to invest their every being into it, and wishes to share their gifts with the world for the benefit of the greater good.
In a food competition such as this, someone will take home the crown. But when talented people join forces for the betterment of society, everyone wins.
Your 2012 Farm Throw Down Family
Nosh on,
Josh
Josh
